向窗外望去，可以一睹巴黎芳登广场的繁华胜景：那些奶油色的雄伟石制外墙与矗立于广场中央的圆柱尽收眼底。

在Louis Vuitton大厦内部，秀场布置正在紧锣密鼓进行之中。古色古香的庄严大厦即将焕然一新、摇身变为这场龙头品牌魅力大秀的秀场。

Natalia Vodianova与伴侣Antoine Arnault以及Anna Wintour现身Louis Vuitton 2017春／夏时装秀前排

图片来源：INDIGITAL

品牌董事长兼首席执行官Michael Burke将秀场内部装潢形容为“老派时尚吹新风”，而彼时盈门宾客正鱼贯踏上原石阶梯、进入到设有排排豪华金属坐席的室内秀场。嘉宾名单上赫然在列的有甫斩获奥斯卡的女星Alicia Vikander、Michelle Williams、Léa Seydoux、以及LVMH集团董事长兼首席执行官Bernard Arnault的家族成员，其子Antoine Arnault携伴侣Natalia Vodianova出席，而Antoine的弟弟Alexandre也到场亮相。Alexandre告诉我，他即将接手集团旗下新收购的德国箱包品牌Rimowa，对此他深表兴奋。

于是一切只剩时间问题，就等时空胶囊应声打开……而设计师Nicolas Ghesquière依旧笼罩在微弱的未来主义光晕之中，正如1997年，25岁的他初登Balenciaga秀台所引发的那场时尚大爆炸一样。不过那艘宇宙飞船从没真正停靠在Louis Vuitton的星球，尽管该系列中还是能见到些许未来主义运动风的服装，比如由黑底白点衬衫搭配超窄身金色追边长裤的一套造型。

图片来源：INDIGITAL

上半场秀专注于玩转混入波点元素的格纹印花。我马上想到前任创意总监Marc Jacobs主理之下的一场Vuitton秀。那是2012年，Marc将秀场布置成四架棋盘格手扶电梯，上面身穿同款格纹装的模特们跟随电梯运转移动入场，此举的灵感则来自巴黎皇家宫殿花园中的雕像；而同年Louis Vuitton与日本波点艺术家Yayoi Kusama的合作系列也应声开启。这些究竟是暗藏伏线呢，还是仅为巧合？

图片来源：INDIGITAL

Ghesquière无疑是一位剪裁大师，从一件既流线又时髦的灰色窄身外套即可见一斑，而对比随后款式相似、除去前臂部分衣袖的版本就更加凸显其剪裁精当。同时还可见到效果卓绝的皮革外套与印着鲜艳图案、抓人眼球的上衣，那用色明烈的图案正好以techno风格的笔触、描绘了芳登广场拱廊之上的装饰用石刻假面。

Louis Vuitton 2017春／夏系列秀在巴黎芳登广场举办，正是这里的石刻作品启发了部分服装的设计灵感

图片来源：INDIGITAL

图片来源：INDIGITAL

然而，在现代女性奔波如电的忙碌生活中，这一切看起来都太复杂、太苛求了。要问这场Louis Vuitton秀真正传达出了什么信息，那便是：相较这些画风猛烈的服装或暴露肌肤的雪纺衫，还是那些小巧灵便、自信满满的小手袋更加容易掌控。

The view outside the window was the grand serenity of Paris’ Place Vendôme - all cream stone façades with the column in the centre.

Inside the Louis Vuitton building, the show setting was a work in progress. The grandeur of an ancient building was being converted into a glamorous new home for the iconic brand.

Natalia Vodianova, her partner Antoine Arnault, and Anna Wintour in the front row of Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2017

InDigital

“Old fashioned with a new vibe,” said company Chairman and CEO Michael Burke to describe the interior, as guests were hustled up the raw stone stairs to a room with lines of regal metallic chairs. The notables included film stars such as the Oscar-winning Alicia Vikander, Michelle Williams, and Léa Seydoux, and LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault’s family clan. That included his son Antoine Arnault with partner Natalia Vodianova, and Antoine’s younger brother Alexandre, who told me that he was excited at taking charge of LVMH’s newly purchased brand - the German luggage maker Rimowa.

So all was set for the time capsule to take off… And designer Nicolas Ghesquière still has that faint aura of futurism that exploded when he first came centre stage at Balenciaga in 1997 at the age of 25. But the spaceship has never quite landed at Louis Vuitton, although there were some sport garments such as a white-on-black dotted shirt with super-skinny trousers traced with gilding.

Indigital